The Story of Hærvejen

The paths of Hærvejen in our millennium

There is an old road winding through Jutland. It belongs on the peninsula, and as it makes its way there, it undoubtedly carries a bit of the local population's temperament; for with the tenacity and persistence of a Jutlander, it patiently grinds towards its end. But its steadfastness borders on obstinacy, never losing sight of its goal, no matter how much circumstances have changed, and it is not swayed by the fact that in our times, over long stretches where it has been advantageous, its crooked body has been straightened by a line and its insides filled with shards and gravel.

Hugo Matthiessen, 1930

This is how historian Hugo Matthiessen begins his book: The Army Road – A Thousand-Year-Old Road from Viborg to Danevirke. A book that has been crucial in ensuring that the Army Road has not just disappeared into oblivion and beneath the dust from the last cattle drives back in the mid-19th century. Hugo Matthiessen managed to focus on the Army Road's varied and diverse history with his book. Since then, many others have followed in his wake, adding more chapters to the road's history. All of this has laid the foundation for and inspired people today to set out – over shorter or longer distances and with widely different goals.

So even though the original functions of the Ancient Road have long since ceased, today a new life unfolds on the path. It is modern pilgrims and active tourists who seek the freedom, simplicity, and calm pace of the Ancient Road. The goal of the journey is no longer just the distant destinations, but rather the journey itself and all the experiences along the way. Thus, the history of the Ancient Road continues to evolve along with today's travelers of the road. New layers and functions are added to the story of the old thoroughfare – while the historic road creates new experiences and provides meaning for the modern individual.

Whether on foot or by bike, a journey on the Hærvejen offers a unique opportunity to combine an active holiday with beautiful natural experiences and a historical voyage. The trail of Hærvejen brings us close to a number of dramatic events and colorful characters in the history of Denmark. The history and stories are literally laid out at our feet. The places from the history books become real, and the historical figures suddenly come to life. Similarly, Hærvejen takes us through a wide variety of Danish landscapes, just as the diversity of nature's flora and fauna presents itself as a colorful array along the entire route.

The Ancient Road by bike

The first signposted Hærvej for recreational use was 'Hærvejen on bicycle'. It was created by the five Hærvej counties, Viborg, Aarhus, Vejle, Ribe, and Southern Jutland County and was inaugurated in 1989. A few years later, in 1993, the Hærvej bicycle route became part of the national bicycle route N3. While the counties' Hærvej bicycle route ended in Viborg, the national bicycle route 3 was extended north out of Viborg, over Aalborg, and further to Frederikshavn.

The first signposted Hærvej cycling route was approximately 240 km long and stretched from Viborg to the border. With the national cycling route N3 Hærvej, the total cycling route became about 450 km – of which almost 85% is on paved roads.

The Ancient Road by foot

Following the successful opening of the bike route, a corresponding Hærvej project for hikers was initiated. Long stretches coincided with the bike route, but where possible, the hiking trail was laid on gravel roads and along entirely new footpaths. Consequently, the hiking route became slightly longer than the bike route, extending to about 280 km. The new Hærvej hiking trail was inaugurated in 1992. Later, North Jutland County tried for several years to convince the five old Hærvej counties that the Hærvej should be extended north from Viborg – but to no avail.

Since then, there have been minor adjustments and route diversions. But in 2014, the Hærvej hiking trail was finally extended northward from Viborg through Himmerland and Vendsyssel to Hirtshals and Frederikshavn respectively. The total course of the Hærvej hiking trail has thus grown to approximately 645 km today. The routes north of Viborg have been laid out as far as possible to follow historical tracks, old fording places and bridges, and pass by many of the medieval pilgrimage sites.

South of the border, Hærvejen continues as the German Ochsenweg, and to the north, it connects to St. Olav's Way in Norway. Thus, the Hærvejen hiking trail in Denmark is part of the pilgrimage route between Trondheim in Norway and Santiago de Compostela in Spain.